Golf Buggy Servicing
Motorculture provides servicing and maintenance for golf buggies, hospitality cars and turf utility vehicles
Call us 02392 599998 or email email@example.com for more golf buggy servicing / buggy maintenance information and pricing
Servicing your golf buggy
The following buggy servicing details is the work that would be carried out on a golf buggy during a full pre-season service. Please telephone us on 02392 599998, email firstname.lastname@example.org for further details and pricing.
- Drain and renew engine oil using a good quality lubricant
- Replace oil filter if fitted
- Replace air filter
- Replace fuel filter/s
- Remove brake drums and check for brake lining position
- Ensure all brake linkages are free to move efficiently
- Reassemble and adjust brakes
- Grease any relevant points
- Check tyre pressures
- Renew engine spark plug
- Check starter motor brushes for wear and advise owner
- Check drive belt for wear
- Check and adjust starter belt
- Perform a discharge test on battery to ascertain condition
- Tighten any loose bolts and generally ensure parts are in good order
- Check gearbox levels
- Check and test all batteries (electric golf cars) for condition
- Run and test car
- Provide each customer with a condition report on their car
Battery operation and care
Charging: Correct charging methods extend battery life and range between charges. Charge new batteries completely before they are used the first time. Charging time will probably be at least 12 hours. New batteries need up to four hours more charging time than "mature" batteries. Schedule enough charging time, if possible, so the charger shuts off automatically. Age of battery, condition of battery, state-of-discharge, temperature of electrolyte, AC line voltage level, and other variables affect charging time. Limit the use of new batteries between charging for the first 5-20 cycles. New batteries have less capacity than batteries which have been broken in. New golf car batteries should be limited to 18 holes between charges. Industrial vehicle batteries should not be discharged more than 20-30% before recharging.
Whenever possible, for longest battery life, recharge batteries as soon as they become 20% discharged (1.233 SG/37.38 volts). Never allow batteries to fall below 80% discharged (1.148 SG/35.94 volts). Deep discharging significantly reduces battery life. Batteries in storage self-discharge and should be recharged whenever the specific gravity falls below 1.240. The rate of self-discharge varies directly with temperature.
Battery state-of-charge can be determined by using a hydrometer, or by connecting the charger and observing the charging rate. If the ammeter needle jumps smartly to 20-25 amps and then tapers below 14 amps within 15 minutes, the battery is fully charged.
Watering: Correct watering techniques extend battery life. Check the electrolyte level on new batteries before putting them into service, and at least monthly on batteries in service. Water use increases as batteries age.
Never allow the electrolyte level to fall below the top of the plates. If the plates are exposed, add only enough water to cover the plates before charging.
Do not overfill batteries. Electrolyte expands and can overflow during charging. Water added to replace the spillage dilutes the electrolyte and reduces its specific gravity. Cells with lower specific gravity have lower charging capacity. Make sure the electrolyte covers the plates before charging and fill cells to the markers only after batteries are charged.
Use only distilled water. Electric vehicle batteries may use up to 16 quarts of water during their useful lives and non-distilled water may contain harmful minerals which will have a cumulative adverse effect on battery performance.
Cleaning: Acid-soaked dirt on the battery tops causes current leakage and reduced battery efficiency. Hose wash battery tops periodically with clean low-pressure water to keep them free of acid spillage, dirt, grass cuttings and other debris. Make sure vent caps are secure before washing. Do NOT hose wash electronic controllers, switches, solenoid and other electrical control devices. Cover them if necessary.
Wash the tops with a baking soda mixture (1/2 cup per quart of water) and a stiff bristle brush if a low-pressure hose doesn't remove the dirt. Rinse with clean water.
Make sure the battery tops are clean and dry before putting them into storage.
You should always refer to your own manufacturers operator workshop manual or technical document when caring for your battery.
Oil has many jobs in your engine. It lubricates, seals, cools and cleans all of the moving parts.
Allowing your oil level to become low is probably the most harmful thing you can do to an engine. When you don't have the recommended amount of oil the engine can overheat and critical metal parts may lock up or even melt.
If gasoline is allowed to sit in your gas tank too long it can oxidize and go stale. Actually it doesn't take very long. In a vented tank gas can go stale within 60 days or so.
Gas is actually a mixture of different hydrocarbons and in as the lighter ones evaporate the heavier ones are left behind leaving gasoline that is slightly thicker than the original mixture and has an odour like varnish. The problem with stale gas is that it can leave gummy varnish-like deposits in the jets in your carburetor. Of course you shouldn't go around smelling your gas tank to see if it has a varnish odour.
If the carburetor has become clogged by these deposits it may need to be soaked in carburetor cleaner. First remove all the rubber pieces. After soaking the carburetor replace all the gaskets with new ones and reinstall the carburetor. Make sure the gas tank is clean and dispose of the stale gasoline properly. Don't pour it on the ground and don't leave it sitting out in the garage. If possible it is best to run the engine until the tank is empty.
If your golf cart isn't used very frequently and a tank of gas lasts you more than a couple of weeks, you may want to consider a gasoline additive that will slow the oxidation process and extend the storage time.
What voltage is my buggy?
Determining how many volts your golf buggy uses is as easy as counting the water fill caps on the batteries. Lifting up your golf buggy seat reveals the battery compartment. The water fill caps are located on each battery. Each battery cell covered by a cap is 2-volts. Simply count all of the battery fill caps on your batteries, multiply this total by two, and you will have determined your golf cart's voltage. Petrol golf buggies utilize one 12-volt battery.
Can't decide which buggy? - Petrol or electric golf buggies, which is best for you?
If you are considering buying a golf buggy and require detailed information on whether it should be petrol or electric powered, following are some factors to include in your decision making process:
- Initial Cost: Expect to pay approximately £150 more for a new petrol over a new electric buggy.
- Performance: petrol and electric buggies perform equally on flat or rolling terrain. Petrol buggies have a slight edge climbing steep hills versus electric, except for the forty-eight volt electric buggies which are equally peppy, especially when combined with a performance upgrade motor,electric buggies do provide a smoother standing start.
- Noise: Battery powered buggies emit very little, if any noise, when compared to petrol powered buggies. New and late model petrol buggies however, are becoming relatively quieter than older models due to improvements in the reduction of vibration in the transaxle, air intake systems and clutches.
- Maintenance Costs: Electric buggies require a minimal amount of maintenance due to fewer moving parts. With a reasonable amount of care, a set of batteries should last about five years with the ability to play 36 holes on a single charge. Petrol buggies should be serviced annually to include changing the oil, oil filter (if your buggy has this feature), spark plug and air filter. Drive belt and starter generator belts may need to be replaced every two to three years. Whether you have a petrol or electric buggy, PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE will extend the life of your golf buggy dramatically.
- Operating Costs: The primary cost for petrol powered buggies is the price of petrol. The primary cost for an electric buggy is the price of a kilowatt-hour of electricity.
- Pollution: In terms of ozone problems, electric buggies are considered zero emission vehicles. Petrol buggies have undergone tremendous improvements in emission with the advent of the 4-cycle engine.
- Golf Buggy Body: The cowlings are of the same material composite for both petrol and electric.
- Golf Buggy Frame: Different brands use different frame material. Most use steel frames, however one manufacturer uses a 100% aluminium frame.
Other variables include your golf course terrain and if the buggy barn at your course has electric capabilities. Of course, your own personal preference is the most important factor.
If you need more help in making your petrol or electric golf buggy decision or for golf buggy servicing and maintenance, please call us on 02392 599 998 or email email@example.com.
Motorculture. Unit 8 Hillside Ind Est, London Road, Horndean, Hampshire, PO8 0BL.
Tel/fax: 02392 599 998 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org